At the time of Bodequality’s launch, Alison Partridge Stickney, Head of Women’s and Maternity Merchandising at Old Navy, said a key goal was to “make the whole buying process inclusive, [with] no walls between clients. Likewise, Universal Standard co-founder Alex Waldman said the brand’s goal was to “desegregate fashion” and “close the gap” between customers. And, in 2017, plus-size retailer Dia & Co ran a full-page New York Times ad urging fashion to “”[break] break down all barriers ”between clients of different sizes.

Alex Waldman, co-founder of Universal Standard, said she sees Old Navy’s move as a good sign for the future.

“Although Universal Standard is still the only brand in the world to offer this wide range of sizes, we never wanted to be the only source of clothing that included size. We have decided to start a revolution, ”she said. “My co-founder Polina Veksler and I created Universal Standard to democratize the fashion industry. We therefore defend any brand that follows in our footsteps. “

Universal Standard’s revenues grew by more than 70% in 2021 and more than 80% of its audience are loyal customers. Inclusive size brand Good American, which manufactures jeans in sizes 0-24, flourishes in 2021. It is expected to reach $ 185 million in revenue by the end of the year, up 85% from 2020. Parade also grows rapidly, raise $ 43 million this year and quadruple its 2020 turnover, thanks to its emphasis on inclusivity in one size fits all. Its size range is XS-3XL. And established brands Jimmy Choo and JW Anderson added extended sizes to their existing product lines – Jimmy Choo now manufactures shoes for women up to EU size 45.

Coresight Research estimates that plus size fashion will reach $ 32 billion as a market this year, and more than 20% of American women are potential customers.

Much of the progress in inclusive sizes this year has been taken in small increments, with brands adding a few more sizes here or adding a new inclusive line there. Big splashes like the Old Navy’s massive Bodequality campaign aren’t achievable for the most part, according to Nadia Boujarwah, CEO of inclusive fashion retailer Dia & Co.

“The Old Navy announcement is the new gold standard,” Boujarwah said at the Glossy Fashion Summit in October. “They sell more [sizes] that a lot of brands. They’ve eliminated many of the worst problems, like selling only larger sizes online or having a price disparity between smaller and larger sizes. But very few brands can make the investment that Old Navy made, all at once.

Boujarwah said booming sizing reviews, like the Old Navy’s, can intimidate brands that need to make more subtle moves toward inclusiveness. She said brands should take every possible step and communicate their priority of inclusiveness to their customers.

But Waldman cautioned that these small steps shouldn’t be seen as a replacement for transformative action.

“We continue to challenge [large] brands to create a shopping experience that evens out, ”said Waldman. “As we celebrate all steps towards inclusivity, regardless of size, we have a limited number of styles selected in a specialty category, but always other buyers of a certain size. What we want is a new archetype that allows a size 4 and a size 34 to shop the same, using style as the only filter.